Spork Series 3 manual
Rodeo Spork Series 3: Owner’s Manual & Installation Guide
Welcome to the Rodeo Labs family. The Spork Series 3 is designed with durability, adaptability, and utility at its core. Whether you are racing gravel, embarking on an ultra-distance bikepacking expedition, or exploring local trails, this fork is built to handle the rigors of the wild.
Critical Safety Warning
WARNING: Cycling is an inherently dangerous activity, and the front fork is a critical, load-bearing component of your bicycle. Failure to strictly adhere to the installation, maintenance, and usage instructions outlined in this manual may compromise the structural integrity of the fork, leading to catastrophic failure without warning. A component failure while riding can result in a sudden loss of control, causing severe personal injury or death. To ensure your safety and to maintain the validity of your warranty, we strongly mandate that all installation, routine inspections, and maintenance be performed by a qualified professional bicycle mechanic. Under no circumstances should you modify the fork, exceed its specified load limits, or subject it to riding conditions outside of its intended design.
Read this manual in its entirety before installing or using your fork. If you have questions about installation, please free to call, email, or text us via the contact page.
1. Specifications & Limitations
Adhering to these structural limits is critical for your safety and the longevity of the fork.
- Max Rider AND Gear Combined Weight: 280 lbs (122.5 kg)
- Max Cargo Weight: 27.5 lbs (12.5 kg) total additional cargo, distributed evenly and mounted per these guidelines.
- Tire Clearance: Up to 700c x 55mm or 650b x 2.4″. This is guideline and is always tire / rim dependent. Note: Always maintain a minimum of 4–6mm of clearance between the tire and the fork to account for mud, debris, and wheel flex.
- Steer Tube: Tapered (1-1/8″ to 1.5″) or Straight (1-1/8″), depending on fork that you have. 300mm steer tube un-cut length.
- Axle Dimensions: 100mm spacing, 12mm or 15mm diameter (convertible), 127mm total length, 1.5mm thread pitch.
2. Installation Best Practices
Cutting the Carbon Steer Tube
Carbon fiber requires specialized tools and techniques to prevent delamination and structural failure.
Always wear safety glasses when using tools and cutting devices.
- Use the Right Tools: Never use a standard pipe cutter. Use a carbon-specific 12″ hacksaw blade (Park Tool CSB-1 or functionally identical) and a dedicated Park Tool saw guide to ensure a perfectly straight cut.
- Prep the Cut: Wrap the cut line tightly with masking tape. This prevents the carbon fibers from splintering or fraying as the saw breaks through.
- Smooth the Edges: After cutting, use fine-grit sandpaper or a file to smooth the inner and outer edges of the steer tube cut. Inhale precautions (like a filtration mask mask) should be taken, as carbon dust is harmful. Wash hands and clothing after cutting carbon.
Headset, Spacers, & Stem Installation
Proper spacer configuration prevents undue leverage on the steer tube and ensures secure stem clamping.
- Maximum Lower Stack: The maximum allowed headset spacer stack height between the top of the headset and the bottom of the stem is 40mm. Exceeding this creates dangerous leverage that can snap the steer tube.
- The “Spacer Above the Stem” Rule: Always leave the steer tube long enough to place a 5mm spacer above the stem. The steer tube should sit 2–3mm below the top lip of this upper spacer. This ensures the stem’s upper pinch bolt clamps fully onto the steer tube rather than crushing the top edge.
- Crown Race: We highly recommend using a “split” crown race for easy, tool-free installation. Solid crown races with tight tolerances can be difficult to install and may damage the carbon crown if seated improperly.
- We have noted extremely tight crown race tolerances from Chris King and Wolf Tooth. Those races required excessive force to install.
- Our warranty will be void on all forks that utilize non-split crown races.
Compression Plug Installation
- NEVER USE A STAR NUT: Installing a standard metal star-fangled nut will score and ruin the inside of the carbon steer tube, leading to catastrophic failure.
- Use a Carbon Compression Plug: A compression plug is required (inner steer tube diameter is 23.3±0.2mm).
- Proper Placement: Ensure the expanding body of the compression plug is positioned perfectly inline with the clamping area of your stem. The plug pushes outward against the carbon, counteracting the inward crushing force of the stem bolts.
- Torque Specs: Tighten the compression plug and stem bolts strictly to the stem manufacturer’s specified torque (usually around 4–5 Nm) using a calibrated torque wrench.
3. Cargo, Racks, and Fenders
The Spork 3 is compatible with low-rider and randonneur-style racks, as well as full-coverage fenders.
- Protect the Carbon: Always use nylon washers between metal bolts, mounts, or metal washers and the carbon fork to prevent scarring the finish and damaging the structural carbon.
- Strict Torque Limits: A maximum of 5 Nm of torque is allowed on all mid-leg and fork crown mounting points. Do not over-tighten.
- Heavy Loads: When mounting loads heavier than a standard water bottle to the mid-leg eyelets, use 20–25mm M5 bolts to attach cargo through the inner and outer fork leg eyelets. This dramatically increases durability.
- Prevent Corrosion: Grease all threads before installation, and use locking washers to prevent bolts from vibrating loose on rough terrain.
4. Component Setup
- Brakes: The fork natively accepts Flat Mount 140mm or 160mm rotors. Hose routing is internal. On Spork 3.2 and 3.3 models, fully integrated routing through the steer tube is supported. The flat mount standard specifies a mounting plate for the front caliper. This mounting place can be flipped in orientation (up or down) to switch between 140mm and 160mm rotor configuration.
- Axles: The modular endcap system allows native use of 15mm or 12mm through-axles without adapters. Axle thread pitch is 1.5mm. Nominal total axle length should be 125-127mm.
- Endcap tool: Changing from 12mm to 15mm endcaps, or installing the Offset Eyelet Kit requires a specific tool in order to be able to properly torque or tighten the endcaps on a Spork. (Requires the specific Rodeo Labs endcap tool for installation).
- Dynamo Routing: Spork 3 features internal dynamo routing on the drive-side fork leg, with wiring ports at the lower leg and upper crown area.
6. Internal Routing
- Spork 3.0 supports internal leg routing. Spork 3.1 supports internal leg routing. Spork 3.2 supports both internal leg routing and fully integrated steer tube routing. Spork 3.3 supports both internal leg routing and fully integrated steer tube routing.
- Routing the brake hose or dynamo wiring through the fork can be challenging to the uninitiated. A professional from a bike ship is your easiest option. If you chose to go it alone, a Park Tool internal routing kit would help greatly. If you don’t want to buy that kit, thread a standard shift cable from the upper entry point, through the fork, to the lower exit point. Use a hooked tool or bent paper clip to grab the end of the shift cable and fish it out through the exit hole. Then feed the brake hose housing over the shift line and push it back through the fork. If routing a dynamo wire, try placing a vaccum at the lower leg exit hole of the fork, then insert a peice of string at the upper entry hole. Feed the string through and the vaccum will pull the string out of the lower exit hole. Tie the string to the wire and pull the wire back through.
6. Critical Safety Warnings & General Safe Use
To ensure your safety while riding, adhere to the following industry-standard safety checks:
- Pre-Ride Inspection: Before every ride, ensure your thru-axle is properly torqued and secured. Check that your front brake caliper is tight and functioning correctly.
- Crash Protocol: Carbon fiber can conceal internal structural damage. If you are involved in a crash, experience a heavy impact, or drive your bike into a low clearance area (like a garage) while roof-mounted, the fork must be thoroughly inspected by a professional. Look for deep scratches, gouges, or changes in how the carbon sounds when tapped with a coin (a dull thud can indicate delamination).
- Torque Wrenches are Mandatory: Over-tightening stem, brake, or accessory bolts is the leading cause of carbon component failure. Always use a torque wrench.
- Chemical Exposure: Keep harsh solvents, degreasers, and brake fluid away from the carbon finish, as they can degrade the resin over time. Clean only with mild soap and water.
- Wear and Tear: Damage due to abuse, crashes, neglect, corrosion, or over-torquing is not covered under the lifetime warranty. Take care of your gear so it can take care of you.
6. Preventing the “Ring of Death”
A common but highly dangerous issue with carbon steer tubes is the formation of a wear groove or indentation around the circumference of the tube, often referred to in the industry as the “ring of death.” This groove is almost entirely preventable. It is typically caused by riding with a loose headset, which allows the upper headset bearing or the metal compression ring to vibrate and chafe against the carbon fiber. Over time, this friction grinds away the resin and carbon layers. Because carbon fiber relies on a continuous structural matrix, even a microscopic groove creates a massive stress riser that can lead to catastrophic fork failure without warning.
To ensure the longevity of your Spork Series 3 and your personal safety, please adhere to the following protocols:
- Pre-Ride Headset Check: Routinely check your headset preload. Lock your front brake and gently rock the bike back and forth. If you feel a “clunk” or any play in the headset, do not ride the bike until the headset has been properly adjusted and tightened.
- Bi-Annual Visual Inspection: We strongly recommend dropping your fork to visually review the steer tube’s condition every six months. Look for any horizontal scoring, indentations, or wear marks where the headset bearings and compression ring sit.
- Seek Professional Evaluation: If you discover a wear ring, immediately cease riding the fork. We advise consulting with a professional bike shop mechanic for proper technical advice, diagnosis, and adjustment. They can determine if the fork is safe to continue using or if it requires replacement.
7. Jumps
Our fork is engineered and rigorously tested to meet the demanding ISO 4210-2:2023 Standard for Mountain And Racing Bicycles, ensuring highly dependable performance and structural integrity for gravel riding and trail riding. Spork forks have an exceptional track record under extremely demanding off road conditions. While it is built to handle the significant stresses and impacts of rugged courses, Spork fork is not explicitly designed for jumping. Jumping a Spork can subject it to a wider range of conditions than we are able to test and certify it for and presents a potential severe safety risk to the rider. We do not endorse jumping our forks. Jumping a Spork immediately voids the warranty.
8. Which Spork 3 do I have?
Spork has been iterated four times since its inception. Depending on when you bought yours, it could be any of the four versions. Here are the clues which tell you which you have.
Spork 3.0: The heavier fork in the series. This one features a bonded fork and steer tube construction. If you see a glued collar above the crown race, it’s a 3.0. 3.0 has two mid-leg eyelets.
Spork 3.1: This is the first of our monocoque construction Sporks. There is no bonding point on the fork because the entire fork is made in a single piece of tooling. Spork 3.1 does not support internal / integreated steer tube routing, but is the only Series 3 fork that has a housing guide built in to make installing your brakes easier. 3.1 has two mid-leg eyelets.
Spork 3.2: Spork 3.2 is just like 3.1, but adds integrated routing capabilities. Because the fork now has two ways of doing the routing, we had to lose the internal routing guide, which was sad. Spork 3.2 has two mid-leg eyelets.
Spork 3.3: 3.3 is identical to 3.2, but has three mid leg eyelets instead of two. That is the only change.
Series 3 Non-Tapered: This special fork is its own animal. It’s designed for bikes that don’t support tapered head tubes and features the ability to run through axle or QR dropouts, which is selected at time of purchase. This fork does not support integrated routing.


